Folkestone to Samphire Hoe Circular

The walk: The walk climbs out of Folkestone using a zig-zag path rising from Little Switzerland to reach the cliff top, then follows the North Downs Way National Trail high along the cliffs before descending to pass through the the access tunnel to reach Samphire Hoe, a huge artificial promontory created from the spoil from the Channel Tunnel. We return along the base of the cliffs, first across shingly beaches (NB low tide only), then following the massive concrete sea defences. Finally we return to the start by ascending through the Warren Nature Reserve.

Sea defences we walk along

Map

NB The map shows my route, with various diversions and excursions which you may not wish to follow precisely.

Why do it: This is an unusual and adventurous walk full of interest, the outward and return routes offering a complete contrast. Points of interest include:

A Martello tower, passed on the golf course on the way out of town. Its external appearance must be much as it was originally. A second Tower is passed a bit further up: it has been converted into a home.

Martello Tower

The area of cliff falls overlooking East Wear Bay is known as the Warren, and is now a wild Country Park and SSSI. There was a railway halt here which was a popular destination for day trippers, who descended down to the beach. The halt finally closed on 1939 because of persistent landslides. There was also a popular tea chalet up from the railway on a green plateau surrounded by cliffs, hence known as Little Switzerland. It is now a cafe for the surrounding caravan park; it has a great view.

Little Switzerland Cafe

We climb the steep zig zag path from the chalet to the clifftop: this offers great views, and is the remnant of a much wider track which served the original tea chalet.

View from zig-zag path

From the clifftop path, there are views back West to Folkestone and East along the cliffs over the Warren, with Samphire Hoe and Dover Harbour eventually being revealed. Down below, you can see the Folkestone to Dover railway line crossing the undercliff, before disappearing into a tunnel under Abbot's Cliff, and also the impressive wide concrete aprons forming the coastal defences, along which you will return.

View over the Warren

Wild flowers abound in Spring and Summer.

On the path at Capel Le Ferne is the National Battle of Britain Memorial. There is a memorial wall for the Few, a statue of a fighter pilot looking out to sea, at the centre of a giant white propeller painted on the ground, a replica Hurricane, and Visitor Centre with cafe, all located on a grassy terrace with coastal views.

Battle of Britain Memorial

On the clifftop of Abbot's Cliff is a concrete sound mirror, an aircraft detection system trialled between the wars but made redundant before WW2 by the invention of radar. More WW2 concrete bunkers and fortifications follow, as well as some round brick towers, which are ventilation shafts for the railway tunnel below.

Abbot's Cliff Sound Mirror

Samphire Hoe is land entirely man made at the base of Shakespeare Cliff from spoil excavated during the building of the Channel Tunnel. The UK Tunnel cooling plant is located here, and the remaining land (the bulk) has been made into a nature reserve. It is accessed by a tunnel 0.2 miles long from the A20.

Samphire Hoe from the clifftop path, Dover Harbour in the distance

Immediately West of the Hoe are the surprisingly remote shingle beaches of Lydden Spout and Abbot's Cliff, separated by a scrub covered promontory with a small lake. The latter is said to be a naturist beach for those hardy enough to reach it. From the beach, you can see a hole in the cliff: this is a maintenance 'portal' giving access to the railway tunnel.

Abbot's Cliff Beach

At the Western end of Abbot's Cliff beach, the massive concrete coastal defences begin, essentially a sea wall, but, ivo the Warren, widening to a massive concrete apron. These exemplary defences were constructed just after WW2, and were presumably justified by the need to protect the railway. Sadly, there are signs that the concrete is being allowed to break up in places.

Algae colour the concrete apron at the Warren

The defences end at the sandy Warren Beach.

Warren Beach

Distance: 13 miles for the complete circuit.

Logistics: Start from the East Cliff Pavilion on Wear Bay Road, where there is free parking in the road (NB always double check local parking signs). You could also start from Folkestone Station, adding an extra 1.5 miles one-way (or treat yourself to a taxi).

Parking outside the East Cliff Pavilion

Challenges:

Paths may be muddy and slippery after rain, and may be especially treacherous on steep slopes or steps.

You may be tempted to use the path cutting down steeply from the Clifftop Cafe to the sea wall, but this was closed due to landslips when I last was there.

Blocked path from Clifftop Cafe

The two shingly beaches between Samphire Hoe and the sea wall (namely, Lydden Spout and Abbots Cliff) can only reliably be crossed at low tide, so check tide times carefully.

Check tide times

Access to the sea wall from the beach is via an awkward ascent of some 10 feet on a DIY ladder. The ladder has been placed there unofficially, apparently to enable naturists to access the isolated beach, and is secured by a rope. Use it at your own risk. Were it to be removed, it would be very difficult to make the necessary ascent, and you would then have to retrace your steps.

Ladder up to sea wall

Judging by the large boulders lying around, rockfalls from the chalk cliffs are quite frequent, so try not to stray too close to the cliff base if you can help it.

Beware rockfalls!

Should the Warren Beach be under water at high tide, then use the earlier exit path at the end of the concrete wall. The foreshore between the Warren and Folkestone beach (Sunny Sands) is very rocky, with no apparent exit route, so it is best not to try and walk it.

Foreshore between the Warren and Folkestone

There are mobile phone 'not spots', and you may find your phone logged on to your provider's French services. Apart from the risk of unexpected roaming charges, you may be moved to continental time, disrupting the sequence of any photos you take, and causing you to miss your train. Set your phone to use time as determined by your GPS location.

Refreshments:Numerous pubs, cafes etc round Folkestone Harbour.

Cafe at Little Switzerland caravan park. Cockpit cafe at the Battle of Britain Memorial; also Clifftop Cafe about a mile further on. All three have excellent views.

Clifftop cafe

Kiosk at Samphire Hoe.

Nearby Walks

My walk Folkestone to Dover uses the sea wall route via the ladder and beaches to reach Samphire Hoe, then continues on the North Downs Way through Dover's Western heights to Dover Priory station.

To the West: Hastings to Pett Level

To the East: Dover to Deal

Also, Cycle Ride along the coast on the Cantii Way, from Dover to Rye, including Folkestone and Dungeness

More Photos

May; hazy at first, brightening.