North Downs Way: Farnham to Guildford

The Walk: The North Downs Way starts (or finishes) at Farnham, Surrey. This walk starts from Farnham Station, follows the Trail through varied Surrey countryside to the River Wey gap, and ends in Guildford town centre.

Map

NB The map shows my route, with various diversions and excursions which you may not wish to follow precisely.

Why do it: The walk is the first stage of the National Trail, which ultimately ends at Dover, some 125 miles away. The walk starts beside the River Wey, a pleasant stream, separated from the busy A31 by a belt of trees. Once you leave the environs of Farnham and the noisy A31 fades out of earshot, you are passing through pleasantly rolling Surrey countryside all the way to rejoin the River Wey at Guildford.

Somewhat counter to its name, this stretch of the North Downs Way doesn't follow the actual ridge of the North Downs, known as the Hogs Back, since sadly this carries the busy A31 road. Rather, the Trail traverses the lower lying land to the South, a mix of fields and woodland (and golf courses). In Spring, much of the Trail is lined by grassy banks with copious wild flowers, and bluebells carpet the woodland.

Around Seale, the Hampton Estate devotes many large fields to growing blueberries and raspberries on trellises.

The village of Seale is just off the Trail, and has a scenic church and a tea room. The route skirts the northern edge of Puttenham Common, a distinctive, hilly, wooded landscape, and then descends to Puttenham, the only significant village actually on the route, with attractive old cottages strung out along the road. On the hillside above the village there is a vineyard (Greyfriars) and also hops are grown on tall poles. (The area used to be well known for hop growing.)

Also right on the Trail is the Watts Gallery on the outskirts of the village of Compton, which was built to house the works of the Victorian artist, G F Watts, who lived nearby in a substantial Arts and Crafts house, Limnerslease. His wife, Mary, was a talented artist and potter in her own right, and designed the Watts Chapel just down the road as a memorial to her husband. It's well worth looking round the Gallery and House (entrance fee) and Chapel (free) if you have the time and energy, although personally I find his paintings literally and figuratively gloomy. Of more interest might be the excellent tea room.

Watts Gallery

On the final part of the route, a short excursion off-trail gives a view of Loseley House, which dates back to Elizabethan times. A bit further on, you finally get unimpeded views up to the Hogs Back with a trio of transmitter masts.

The Trail descends to the River Wey via Ferry Lane, where there used to be a ferry and ford next to a hillside of golden sand, from which Guildford probably acquired its name. Before descending to the river, it is worth the short excursion up to the ruined chapel atop the eponymous St Catherine's Hill, an excellent viewpoint along the river to Guildford town, with its Castle tower, situated in the gap in the North Downs eroded by the River Wey.

St Catherine's Chapel

The walk down the Wey towpath into Guildford makes a pleasing end to the route.

Distance: 13.5 miles on the NDW, 1.5 miles to Guildford along the towpath, 15 miles in total

Logistics: Start from Farnham Station, which is close to the start of the Trail. Finish in Guildford town centre (rail station, bus station). There are frequent direct trains from Guildford to Farnham, making this a good rail ramble.

Farnham Station

Challenges: Expect mud in winter and after heavy rain. (The Trail adjacent to Farnham Golf Course was deeply flooded, necessitating a short detour.)

There are some short stretches of road walking, notably around Farnham Golf Club.

Refreshments: There are the usual eateries and shops in Farnham town centre, a short walk from the station, and also an M&S Simply Food in the BP station on the A31, accessible from the Trail a short distance after the start. The Good Intent pub in Puttenham, and Watts Gallery Tea Room are directly on the route. The Manor Farm Tea Room is a short walk off-route in the village of Seale.