The Walk: From Wye, we retrace our steps to near the village of Boughton Lees, where we leave the main route of the NDW to follow the Canterbury Loop to .... Canterbury, passing through the attractive village of Chilham on the way.
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| Canterbury Cathedral in the evening light at the end of the walk |
Route
NB The map shows my route, with various diversions and excursions which you may not wish to follow precisely.
From the centre of the village of Wye, walk down to the bridge over the River Stour and cross the railway line on a level crossing, then follow the NDW up the hill, passing Perry Court Farm (cafe) and on along a quiet lane (Pilgrims Way, appropriately enough) until the Canterbury Loop branches off on a track to the right.
The trail ascends across open fields to enter King's Wood. It should be straightforward to follow the signed route along the woodland margin before descending to Chilham (a good pit stop with eateries and public toilets).
A spell on mainly quiet roads takes you up again to and through the village of Old Wives Lees, before going cross-country again, passing under the Canterbury-Faversham railway line and eventually crossing over the A2 to the outskirts of Canterbury.
The route ends at Canterbury Cathedral.
Why do it?
You are following in the footsteps of medieval pilgrims to Becket's shrine. Pilgrims marshalled themselves into larger groups at the church of Boughton Aluph the better to defend themselves on the passage of King's Wood, which had a reputation as a haunt of robbers.
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| Boughton Aluph Church |
Views from the King's Wood trail are limited by the trees, and a deer fence prevents any wandering off the route, making for a rather dull walk through the chestnut coppice. However, a 'coppice oratory' marks the spot from where you may get your first - and, until you're arrival at the building, last - glimpse of Canterbury Cathedral 7 miles distant. (There used to be a view of the Cathedral from Golden Hill on the outskirts of the City, but that view has since been obscured by buildings, despite that being a protected sightline.)
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| Coppice Oratory |
Also, unseen down in the Stour Valley, is Palladian Godmersham Park, home to Jane Austen's brother, which she visited often, and which probably was an inspiration for the country houses in her novels. "Kent is the only place for happiness, everyone is rich there" she wrote: still true today, up to a point.
Just before descending the slope, the trees have been cut away and the deer fence replaced by a ha-ha, providing a view over the valley
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| Ha-ha viewpoint |
On the road into Chilham, the eponymous 'castle' can be glimpsed over it's lake. Chilham has an attractive village square, with old timbered buildings, and the castle gates on one side and the Church on the other.
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| Chilham Village Square |
The route beyond Old Wives Lees passes through many orchards. At one extreme is the large commercial operation at Nickle Farm (Mansfields), spanning the railway, whilst at the other is No Mans Orchard, between Chartham Hatch and the A2. The latter is a community orchard, tended on traditional lines, where every tree is sponsored by a local resident.
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| Traditional sheep grazed orchard |
I did the route in February when the trees were all bare, but in orchard blossom time (April/May?), it must be a picture.
Just before the A2 is the iron age Bigbury Hill Fort, which is largely overgrown.
The City of Canterbury, with it's historic Cathedral, is of course the end of the Pilgrims Way, and would repay a prolonged stay.
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| You enter Canterbury City centre by the West Gate |
Logistics:
Start: In the village of Wye. Either arrive by train, or park in the village car park (still free!), or, if that is full, as it may be if there is a local event like a farmer's market, there is free parking along the road.
Finish: Canterbury Cathedral. For a train back to Wye, go to Canterbury West station.
You could break the walk more or less in the middle by getting a train from Chilham Station. There is also free parking in Chilham village square, or in the free public car park just down the hill.
Distance: It is about 2 miles from the centre of Wye to the start of the Canterbury Loop, then 13.5 miles to Canterbury Cathedral, so 15.5 miles in total.
Chilham is at the mid point, so you could split the walk into 2 stages of about 7.5 miles each.
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| Wye, parking in Churchfield Way |
Challenges:
Expect mud after rain.
Unsurprisingly, views are limited by trees in King's Wood.
There are some stretches on roads, notably from Chilham through Old Wives Lees, through the village of Chartham Hatch, and the final mile through the Canterbury suburbs.
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| Road out of Old Wives Lees |
Refreshments:
Wye has several eateries, including The Hub, which specifically caters to cyclists, but serves just as well for walkers. There is also a convenience store, free car park and public toilets. The Tickled Trout pub has a pleasant garden by the river (check opening hours).
On the Trail above Wye is Perry Court Farm, which has a popular tea room.
Chilham has a cafe (Church Mouse Tea Rooms) and pub (The White Horse Inn), free car park and public toilets.
Numerous options in Canterbury
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| The Hub, Wye |
Nearby Walks:
For an overview map of all my walks along the North Downs Way see this page.
On the main Trail: Lenham to Wye, Wye to Tolsford Hill
Next section: Canterbury to Shepherdswell (TBD)
More Photos
Early March, sunny intervals
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| The Hub, Wye |
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| Level Crossing, Wye |
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| Path out or Wye |
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| Not very friendly geese |
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| Donkeys |
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| The start of the Canterbury Loop |
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| Boughton Atulph Church |
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| Soakham Farm |
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| Barn, Soakham Farm |
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| View across to Wye Downs |
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| In King's Wood |
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| Coppice Oratory Viewpoint Info Board |
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| Zoom of Canterbury Cathedral 7.5 miles distant |
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| Ha-ha viewpoint |
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| Ha-ha (ditch plus wall to keep out deer, whilst giving an unimpeded view) |
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| View across Stour Valley |
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| Lane into Chilham |
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| Chilham 'Castle' seen from lane (actually a Jacobean mansion) |
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| Chilham Castle (rare moment when the gate onto Chilham Village Square was open) |
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| Church Mouse Tea Room, Chilham |
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| Chilham Church |
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| Traditional orchard near Old Wives Lees (maybe corruption of Oldwood's Lees, meaning old clearings from the wood) |
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| Looking across fruit fields and Stour Valley |
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| NDW between Old Wives Lees and Mansfield's Fruit Farm |
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| Mansfield's commercial fruit farm |
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| View across fruit orchards to Chartham (most notable feature is the water tower of the old St Augustine's Hospital on the hill above in Chartham, now converted to a dwelling) |
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| Mansfield's fruit orchard |
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| Under the Faversham-Canterbury Railway Line |
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| Hatch Farm Oast Houses and Transmitter, nr Chartham Hatch |
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| No Man's Orchard info board. managed by the local community along organic principles, and designated as a nature reserve |
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| No Man's Orchard |
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| Crossing the A2 |
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| Stour in Canterbury |
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| Canterbury Cathedral |
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| Tickled Trout pub beside the Stour in Wye |
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