The Walk starts at the Portsdown Hill viewpoint car park and heads West, exploring the chalk downland, then descending to Fareham for a bus back to the start. There are many paths to chose from. My route has been chosen to give the best views over the Solent, with an excursion to the Northern slopes to take in the views over the South Downs. There are alternative options to return along the Wicor Shore to Portchester Castle.
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| Socking great WW1 railway gun at the Royal Armouries, Fort Nelson |
The Route
NB The map shows my route, with various diversions and excursions which you may not wish to follow precisely. You can download the Google map info, as a KML/KMZ file, then convert to GPX using a site like GPS Visualiser.
The main route is shown in RED. Start by walking through the Falklands Memorial Plantation. Then head downhill slightly to join the 'middle' path, which mainly stays in open downland with excellent views. (The upper path is close to the busy road and is hemmed in by hedges. The lower paths descend to the housing estates.)
After about a mile, the route rises to exit onto Portsdown Hill Road near the roundabout where it is joined by Southwick Hill Road. Cross over to the diagonally opposite side, and walk through a car park and into the Top Field. Walk through this grassy area to the obvious grey Type 45 test facility. There are splendid views all round.
The exit next to the perimeter fence seems to have been wired closed so you have to return to the car park then cross back over to the Southern slope.
For the next bit, you have two options.
Either continue on the downland along the rim of the Paulsgrove chalk quarry (you will be unaware of its presence unless you stray too far downhill to be met by a wire fence and warning signs).
Or (BLUE route), descend to walk beneath the impressive chalk cliff through a grassland park. At the end of the cliff, take the rising path to rejoin the upper (RED) route. This emerges onto Portsdown Hill Road at Fort Southwick. Walk past the driver test centre, then follow a rather steep and overgrown footpath back down to the downland, now called Portchester Common.
Then join the Portsdown Hill Road again at the crossroads with Skew Road and Portchester Lane. Follow the latter down hill to the northern side, then take a footpath rising diagonally back up across the field with good views of the line of the South Downs, to arrive at the Nelson Monument and Fort Nelson. Look around the artillery collection at Fort Nelson if you wish (entry is free). Then exit at the far end next to a big Naval gun.
Now walk downhill beside Portsdown Hill Road: there is a pavement for much, but not all, of the way. After crossing the M27 on a bridge, cross over (CARE!) to a footpath, part of the Allan King Way, which takes you on a good track around the field and down to the A27 on the outskirts of Fareham, next to the Delme Arms and opposite the Cams Mill pub.
Make your way beside the impressive brick railway viaduct, then be sure to pick up the England Coast Path along the shoreline and into Bath Lane Park/Recreation Ground and follow the path beside the Fareham Lake or Creek (a tidal inlet) and out to make the short walk through town to Fareham Bus Station.
Get the Number 3 bus back to Mablethorpe Road, and climb back up to the start (LIGHT BLUE route)
Some walk variations (ORANGE, PURPLE) are discussed under 'Logistics' below.
Why do it?
This is a walk full of interest, perhaps belying the expectation of a walk on the outskirts of the busy city of Portsmouth.
Portsdown Hill is the chalk ridge overlooking Portsmouth, and is a prominent feature seen on my walks around the Harbour. I include it as one of my coastal walks since, although it is some miles from the sea, the views across Portsmouth Harbour, the Solent and Isle of Wight are impressive. Highlights include Langstone Harbour Mouth between Eastney and Hayling Island, Portsmouth Harbour (including such RN ships as are in port, such as the aircraft carriers), the Spinnaker Tower, Portchester Castle, Southampton Water and the chimneys of the Fawley refinery, the Solent, and the Isle of Wight coast from Bembridge in the East to Cowes in the West.
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| Typical view over Portsmouth Harbour and the Solent, with the Isle of Wight beyond |
There are also fine views Northwards embracing the sweep of the South Downs from Winchester to Butser Hill. My route takes a footpath across the fields behind Dstl Portsdown West to avoid a section which could only otherwise be walked along the road, with the added bonus of great views Northward.
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| View Northwards to the South Downs. Old Winchester Hill left of centre |
The "Top Field" probably has the best all round views. You can also approach right up to the boundary fence of the MoD compound and the Type 45 test facility housed therein.
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| Type 45 test facility seen from the Top Field |
At the start of the walk, you pass through the Falklands Memorial Plantation, commemorating the fallen of the Falklands Task Force which set sail from Portsmouth in 1982.
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| Falklands Memorial Plantation |
Despite being sandwiched between the busy road along the ridge and the outskirts of Portsmouth, the chalk down grassland has been conserved, and much of it is SSSI.
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| On the scarp |
The Paulsgrove Chalk and Lime Quarry has left an impressive chalk cliff. Somewhere in the cliff is a radio shelter tunneled out in World War 2 to support cross-channel operations. I couldn't see it, but videos on Youtube show people exploring it. However, I think this involves going through a gap in the 'keep out' fencing and making a precipitous climb up to one entrance, then down from another. You would also need a good torch. One for another day!
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| Paulsgrove Chalk and Lime Quarry |
The Portsdown Hill ridge has long played an important role in the defences of Portsmouth Harbour. In the nineteenth century, the main fear was of a French invasion sweeping around the flanks of the Naval base, and enveloping it from the rear. Hence a line of forts was constructed along the ridge with long range guns firing inland (not out to sea as one might naively assume.) The forts are massive low profile brick structures. My route passes Fort Southwick, which seems now to host an NHS park and ride, and the local driving test centre.....
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| Fort Southwick repurposed |
....and Fort Nelson. This houses the Royal Armouries artillery collection, which is well worth visiting if you have time and it is open. There is free entry allowing you to explore the exhibits and also wander around the restored buildings and ramparts. It has a cafe as well.
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| Royal Armouries, Fort Nelson |
Next to Fort Nelson is "the original Nelson's Column", erected 1808 and still used today as a maritime navigation aid.
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| Nelson monument |
There are two active defence related sites along the ridge, the Portsdown Technology Park on the site of the former Admiralty Surface Weapons Establishment (which houses the prominent Type 45 test facility), and the Defence Science and Technology Laboratory (Dstl) at Portsdown West.
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| Technology Park |
The route descends to Fareham, passing the impressive brick railway viaduct, and following the coast path beside Fareham Lake or Creek, a tidal inlet of Portsmouth Harbour, noted for its swans, and finally traversing Fareham's Bath Lane Park with its attractive waterside setting. It is home to Fareham and Crofton Cricket Club, so in summer you might catch in game in progress.
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| Fareham Railway Viaduct, Upper Lake, swans |
Logistics
Start at the Portsdown View Car Park (free).
Finish at Fareham bus station, and get the Number 3 bus back to Mablethorpe Road near Paulsgrove Hospital. From here (see map) you can walk back up to the start.
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| Number 3 bus awaits at Fareham Bus Station |
Portsdown Hill is blessed with a number of car parks (see map). Surprisingly, they are all free (except the one for Fort Nelson), but do check local signing: it is surely only a matter of time before charges and restrictions are imposed.
There is scope for many variations. For example:
- walk out on the upper path to the Top Field, and along to the end of the Quarry cliff, and return via the lower route at the base of the cliff.
- From Fort Nelson (PURPLE route), descend South on a footpath, crossing the M27 and the railway on bridges, cross the A27 (you could catch the Number 3 bus here) walk on through Portchester to reach the Wicor Shore of Portsmouth Harbour, then walk along the shore to Portchester Castle, and get the Number 3 bus just up the road, as described in this blog
- Having reached the Cams Mill pub, you could walk around the Cams Hall peninsula (ORANGE route) and on to Portchester Castle as above, see this blog
Distance
Main route: 8 miles to Fareham Bus Station, plus 1 mile back up to the start from the Mablethorpe Road bus stop, 9 miles total
Variation 1: 6 miles round trip
Variation 2: 6 miles to Fort Nelson, plus 4 miles to Portchester Castle, plus 1 mile back up to the start from the Mablethorpe Road bus stop, 10 miles total
Variation 3: 7 miles to Cams Mill pub, 3 miles around the Cams Hall Peninsula, 2 miles to Portchester Castle, plus 1 mile back up to the start from the Mablethorpe Road bus stop, 13 miles total
Challenges
There are many paths worn along Portsdown Hill: its best to avoid the uppermost because it is near the road and enclosed by hedges. Otherwise, wander as the fancy takes you.
After Fort Southwick, the footpath down to Portchester Common is rather steep and overgrown.
After rain, the chalky paths may become slippery.
In places, it is necessary to cross or walk beside Portsdown Hill Road. The road can be busy, so take care.
Refreshments
Burger van in the Portsdown Hill Viewpoint Car park at the start, popular with bikers.
Churchillian pub opposite (good views to front and rear from the terraces)
Cafe at Fort Nelson (free entry)
Delme Inn and Cams Mill pub on the outskirts of Fareham.
Salt Cafe on the Wicor Shore variation
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| The start at Portsdown Hill View Car Park (with burger van) |
Nearby Walks
See this link for my many other walks around Portsmouth Harbour.
More photos
Sunny day in May
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| View Eastwards over Langstone Harbour (Hayling Island in the distance) |
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| View over Queen Alexandra Hospital to Spinnaker Tower, IOW beyond, Tipner Lake in foreground |
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| Typical downland path |
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| Carrier moored in Portsmouth Harbour |
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| Oxeye daisies (?) approaching the Top Field |
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| Looking back to the Type 45 facility |
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| Portchester Castle is on the promontory to the right of centre |
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| The upper path: no views |
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| I believe this is the path of an old tramway parallel to Southwick Road built to carry building materials for the Forts |
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| Portchester Castle and Roman walls |
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| The quarry edge |
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| The quarry chalk cliff |
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| The cliff is extensive |
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| Fort Southwick |
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| On Portchester Common |
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| Path down from Fort Southwick is rather overgrown |
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| View Northwards to South Downs |
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| Where the footpath cuts back up |
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| Footpath to Nelson Monument behind Dstl Portsdown West |
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| Looking back down the footpath towards Butser Hill |
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| Chinook |
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| Approaching Nelson Monument |
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| Nelson monument |
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| Entrance to Royal Armouries Artillery Collection, Fort Nelson |
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| Entry to the Fort |
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| Ramparts of Fort Nelson, protecting from landward assault |
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| Parade ground exhibits |
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| WW1 Railway Gun |
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| 'Arms for Iraq' Supergun |
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| Exit the fort grounds at this Naval Gun |
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| Rough path descending towards M27 bridge |
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| Crossing M27 |
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| Allan King Way down to Fareham |
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| Nice track into Fareham |
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| Delme Arms |
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| Fareham Railway Viaduct |
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| Take the Englkand Coast Path beside the Lake/Creek |
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| Fareham Creek |
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| You're on the England Coast Path |
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| Game of cricket in Bath Lane Rec |
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| Bath Lane Rec |
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| Start of the path at Mablethorpe Road |
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| Path climbing back up to start |
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| Churchillian Pub |
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