Purbeck Ridge Part 2: Corfe Castle to Old Harry Rocks

The Walk: From Corfe Castle, this walk continues along the airy eastern half of the Purbeck Ridge to its ending in the sea stacks of Old Harry Rocks. The walk is a delight, walking on open grass downland with views over Corfe Castle, the blue lagoon of Poole harbour, the green valley leading to the traditional unspoilt seaside resort of Swanage and the chalk cliffs of Ballard Down. Steam trains chuffing along the valley could deceive you into thinking you have passed through a time warp into a simpler world of 1950s Britain. (Part 1 covers the Western half of the ridge from Lulworth Cove to Corfe castle, making a complete traverse of the Isle of Purbeck.)

Running up that Hill

Route

NB The map shows my route, with various diversions and excursions which you may not wish to follow precisely. You can download the Google map info, as a KML/KMZ file, then convert to GPX using a site like GPS Visualiser.

Part 1 of the walk is covered by the routes West of the Corfe Gap (BLUE GREEN RED).

For Part 2, the main route from Corfe Castle to Old Harry rocks is shown in PURPLE.

The main route can be finished by walking to either Swanage (ORANGE), or Studland (PINK).

From Corfe Castle village square, walk up the main road using the pavement on the left, and cross with great care (it's a very busy road), into Sandy Hill Lane.

Take care crossing into Sandy Hill Lane

You immediately pass under the railway bridge (you may catch a steam train going over it), then immediately on the left a permissive path is signed. This climbs steeply on steps to emerge on East Hill. Head East along the ridge on the open grass downland.

Steps up East Hill

Now, all you have to do is follow the ridge, taking in the views all around, not forgetting to look back over Corfe Castle ruins as they recede behind you. You pass a telecoms mast which marks the start of Rollington Hill, then eventually the path passes the Nine Barrows on the eponymous down (you can walk over the mounds if you like). More masts are ahead, but the track does not pass these, rather it descends to their right to meet the Swanage-Studland Road passing through a gap in the ridge.

Telecomms mast on Rollington Hill

The path continues across the road, rising from a layby for another steep climb on steps to an obelisk which marks the start of the track along Ballard Down. Continue on this, with the blue sea ahead of you and hopefully, in clear weather, the white cliffs of the Needles on the Isle of Wight visible across the water. You will also look down upon Studland Beach, Poole Harbour entrance, the resort of Bournemouth, and Swanage Bay culminating in the headland of Peveril Point.

The path reaches a trig pillar (now surrounded by gorse bushes), then descends to the left out to the headland where will be found the Old Harry Rocks sea stacks.

Old Harry Rocks

There are two options to finish.

EITHER: take the path along the coast to Studland village, for buses to Bournemouth or Swanage.

OR: head back towards Swanage, branching left onto the coastal path. This descends with fine views over the resort to a set of steps which take you down to the beach between the last two breakwaters. Then walk along the beach scrambling over breakwaters as necessary until you come to the sea wall promenade. It is then a straightforward walk along the sea front to the town, where the old train station is the transport hub for buses and the heritage railway.

Coast path down to Swanage

Why do it?

The ruins of Corfe Castle (NT, free entry to members) have been described as 'the most romantic ruins in Britain', with a colourful history of defiance by the Royalist Bankes family in the Civil War, followed by 'spoilation' by Parliamentary forces upon their final victory. The adjoining village is quaint, with houses of Purbeck stone including heavy stone roof tiles.

Corfe Castle

There are dramatic views back over the ruins and village from East Hill.

View from East Hill

As you walk along the ridge, views over the Isle of Purbeck and Poole Harbour are captivating. The massive tower of Kingston church is a prominent feature across the valley, and there are also glimpses of the Isle of Portland.

Kingston Church Tower, train heading to Swanage (right of centre)

The Obelisk at the start of Ballard Down commemorates the provision of a water supply to the town of Swanage in 1883. It was dismantled in WW2 to prevent it being used as a navaid by the Luftwaffe (Swanage was a major centre for radar research). It was reinstated after the war.

Obelisk on Ballard Down

Once upon Ballard Down, the blue sea (weather permitting) forms a dramatic backdrop as you approach the cliffs and the Old Harry Rocks, the dramatic white chalk sea stacks, which have their counterpart at the Needles on the Isle of Wight, visible across the water.

Path down towards Old Harry

From the coast path descending into Swanage, you will see far below a large cairn of white stones on the shingle beach, which was created by local people to commemorate the Covid pandemic.

Covid cairn on Swanage Beach

Swanage is a largely unspoilt traditional seaside resort, a surprising survival from the ravages of tourist over-development. There is a sandy beach with breakwaters, a Punch and Judy show kiosk, a restored pier, all sandwiched between the chalk cliff of Ballard Down and rocky Peveril point.

Swanage from the Ridge

The Swanage heritage railway runs regular steam services in season, and provides a novel, if expensive, alternative to the bus to get back to your start at Corfe Castle. Steam trains can be heard from the ridge chuffing down the valley, and if you can pick them out, they make a novel feature in any photograph, although your best chance of a good photo is to study the timetable, and position yourself in sight of one of the bridges between Corfe Castle and Norden.

Steam train Battle of Britain Class 'Manston'

Logistics:

Start: Corfe Castle. You could park at the NT car park (free to members) a short walk just outside the village. There is also a 'Park and Ride' car park at Norden Station (Charge), and a pay car park off West Street in the village. People also attempt to park for free on the various minor roads leading into the village.

Finish:

EITHER Swanage station, for Breezer buses Nos 30, 35 and 40 back to Corfe, or 50 to Bournemouth. Or take the heritage railway back to Corfe Castle.
OR Studland village, for the Breezer bus No 50 to Bournemouth or Swanage

By train: get a train to Wareham, and take the No 30 Breezer bus to Corfe Castle (the bus calls at Wareham station). From Swanage, get the Breezer bus No 30 back to Wareham station, or take the No 50 Bournemouth station.

The Breezer buses take bus passes, so oldies can travel for free.

Your transport awaits

Distance:

Main route: 8 miles to Old Harry Rocks

To Swanage station: add 3.5 miles

To Studland village: Add 1.5 miles

Challenges:

The Purbeck Breezer buses and the Swanage railway only run in summer months, check timetables on line. (NB An experimental service put on by the railway to link with main line trains at Wareham has been abandoned as it was too costly for the charity.)

There are steep ascents on steps to East Hill at the start, and Ballard Down in the middle. Also a steep descent on the coastal path down to Swanage Beach. In addition, in winter or after heavy rain these might be slippery.

As with any coastal area, there is a risk of sea mist rolling in, particularly on humid days.

This walk is understandably popular. You will have a greater chance of solitude out of high season.

Corfe Castle is a tourist honey pot in high season, and is also a traffic bottleneck. Take care crossing the roads in or near the village.

Steps up to the Obelisk

Refreshments:

Corfe Castle has several pubs and cafes, though most do not open much before 10am. You could try the Bankes Arms for coffee/breakfast, and the Village Bakery for fresh filled rolls and takeaway coffee.

Swanage has many eateries. The Cabin Cafe on the sea front near where you hit the beach is handy.

Studland village has several pubs and cafes.