Marsh fever walk in Essex: Mucking and Fobbing (15 miles)

The Walk: In my previous walk, I got as far as East Tilbury Station. In this walk, I continued along the England Coast Path (ECP) to Pitsea Station, taking in a circuit of the Mucking Marshes (reclaimed after land fill), the Essex Wildlife Trust Visitor Centre at the Thameside Nature Park, the Stanford Wharf and RSPB Vange Marsh Nature Reserves and Fobbing Marsh (notable for the Fobbing Horse Moveable Flood Barrier). The gantries of the DP World London Gateway container port provide a backdrop for much of the walk, dramatic or satanic, according to your taste.

Crane gantries, London Gateway Port


Route

NB The map shows my route, with various diversions and excursions which you may not wish to follow precisely. You can download the Google map info, as a KML/KMZ file, then convert to GPX using a site like GPS Visualiser. ORANGE line: main walk. BLUE line: official ECP route past London Gateway Port (I went across Fobbing Marsh). PURPLE line: possible route to Stanford-le-Hope Station.

The ECP starts alongside Gobions Park, right opposite East Tilbury Station. The ECP is generally a well signed, well made path around the inland perimeter of the Mucking land fill site, passing the Golden Gates Lakes and following the freight railway which serves the port, before, close to the village of Mucking, heading back down to the Thames Estuary shore. There is an optional excursion to the excellent Visitor Centre at the Thameside Nature Park, after which the path finally lives up to its COASTAL name by following the shore of the Stanford Wharf Nature Reserve. The DP World London Gateway port prevents access to the coast, hence the ECP heads on a bridleway cross country to Corringham, crossing the approach road to the Port on a purpose built footbridge. 

The official ECP then uses the pavement for some two miles beside the Manorway main road along the the port perimeter, then heads up a track to the Fobbing Horse Flood Barrier on Hole Haven Creek (BLUE line on map). This looked rather dull, so instead I reached the barrier more directly by 'climbing' to the village of  Fobbing then descending to join the footpath along a dyke across Fobbing Marsh. The ECP then follows the embankment of the Hole Haven Creek and later Vange Creek. (See 'Challenges' for a slight complication in re-joining the ECP.)

At this point, the path takes a circuitous route across fields to reach a business park alongside the railway and A13. Pass around this on a rather overgrown path, then slog on along an access track beside the busy elevated road to reach Pitsea Station.

Why do it? 

Before leaving East Tilbury, it is worth heading a half mile down the road to see the surviving modernist buildings from the Bata shoe factory. The Czech entrepeneur Thomas Bata established the factory here in the 1930s together with a 'model village' for the workforce. There are several factory blocks, and streets of flat roofed art deco style housing. There is a heritage exhibition in the library, if you can catch it open.

One of the Bata factory buildings in East Tilbury

The Mucking Marsh was originally a massive land fill site. It has now been reclaimed, and achieved SSSI status.  (I heard a nightingale singing beside the railway.) The reserve  is managed for Thurrock Council by the Essex Wildlife Trust. There is an excellent Visitor Centre with Cafe overlooking the Mucking Flats mudflats in the Estuary, and the crane gantries of the DP World London Gateway Port, which dominate the skyline impressively for most of the walk. Their baby brother gantries which unloaded the land fill rubbish are still in place.

Visitor Centre, Thameside Nature Park

The Stanford Reserve was created with 'offset' funding from DP World. Fields were flooded to create mudflats, and the site now attracts waders and wildfowl. This is really the only truly Coastal part of this walk along this bit of the ECP.

Stanford Wharf Nature Reserve (London Gateway in the background)

Corringham and Fobbing are attractive villages, occupying high ground on an otherwise totally flat walk. Fobbing Church has an imposing tower which dominates the eponymous marsh. Fobbing takes pride in its role as the flashpoint for the Peasants' Revolt (1381).

Fobbing Church Tower

In summer, when I did this walk, Fobbing Marsh seemed almost disappointingly dry, mostly reclaimed for pasture, with several herds of cattle grazing. In WW2, huge fires were lit on the Marsh to decoy German bombers away from the Thames Haven and Shell Haven oil refineries.

Fobbing Marsh, with ever-present cranes of London Gateway

The massive Fobbing Flood Barrier on Hole Haven Creek was one of several built in the 1970s to protect Canvey Island from flooding. The adjacent land on the opposite bank is called 'Fobbing Horse'. Horse seems to be  a local term for a hill, island or sandbank.

Fobbing Horse Flood Barrier

RSPB Vange Reserve situated at the head of Vange/Pitsea Creek, has fresh- and salt water lagoons, for yet more more wildfowl and waders.

Entrance to Vange Marsh RSPB Reserve

Logistics:

By train, between East Tilbury and Pitsea Stations (it's a direct line between them).

By car, there is free parking in the large car park at the War Memorial gardens in East Tilbury, about half a mile from the station, and pay parking at Pitsea Station. (Always check local signage for the latest parking rules and charges.)

At Pitsea Station

Distance: 

15 miles from station to station, including optional excursion to the Thameside Visitor Centre (about 1 mile roundtrip). Add 1 mile round trip if you park in East Tilbury, or make an excursion there to view the Bata buildings.

You could break the walk by heading to Stanford-le-hope Station, about a mile off route from Mucking Village (PURPLE line on map). That would make a short 4 mile walk from East Tilbury. Stanford-le-Hope Station to Pitsea would then be 13 miles.

Challenges: 

This is one of those stretches of the ECP which is mainly inland. There is as yet no coastal access on Mucking Marshes (possibly might be in future?), and the DP London Gateway Port is out of bounds. 

It's a long way. I enjoyed the first part up to the Fobbing Barrier, but the last part around Vange Creek and on to Pitsea did begin to drag a bit, perhaps not helped by the sky clouding over: the marshes are a bit bleak when the sun ain't shining. For much of the time, the path is below the embankment (there are 'keep off' signs) thus views over the salt marsh to the other side of the creek are limited.

Path goes below the embankment

If you take the direct route across Fobbing Marsh, the path along the dyke is quite rough and overgrown, and the styles are in poor condition to start with. Also, you cannot join the official ECP route directly because it is  on the other side of a drainage ditch. Follow that ditch until shortly there is a bridge across.

There were several herds of cattle on Fobbing Marsh, plus Beware of the Bull sings (I think there was a bull lurking in the corner of a field).

Beware of the Bull

Expect mud after prolonged rain, especially on Fobbing Marsh.

Refreshments:

None of the establishments in East Tilbury looked very inviting. If you're going by car, you might pop down to the cafe at Coalhouse Fort.

The Bull pub in Corringham.

The White Lion pub in Fobbing (historic associations with Peasants Revolt)

White Lion, Fobbing

Nearby walks

Tilbury Fort To Coalhouse Fort along the Two Forts way, and onward to East Tilbury

For all my coast walks, see this page.

More Photos

May, bright sunny morning, clouding over later in the afternoon

East Tilbury car park at the Bata War Memorial

Bata War Memorial

Bata factory building

Bata statue

Bata houses

Start of the walk at Gobions Park

Golden Gates Lakes

Golden Gates Lakes 'Poetry Bench' (though any poetry seems to have been erased)

Path is beside freight railway serving the port

Cranes at London Gateway heave into view, and remain so for much of the walk

Mucking Peacock

Stanford Wharf Nature Reserve Info Board

View from Visitor Centre

Visitor Centre Cafe

Looking over Stanford Wharf lagoon/mud flats

The Mucking cranes which used to unload barges of rubbish

Visitor Centre

View from the hide

London Gateway cranes across Stanford Wharf mud flats

On the embankment

Stanford mud flats

Mucking cranes (left) and Visitor Centre (right)

Cross railway

Getting closer


Bridge over port road

Pastoral (this is cattle country)

Bridleway to Corringham

Tale care crossing the horrendously busy Manorway

Corringham Church

Corringham clapperboard house



Grazing between Corringham and Fobbing

White Lion, Fobbing

White Lion interior

Fobbing Church

Fobbing church tower is a prominent landmark on the mashes

The dyke across Fobbing Marsh was quite overgrown and rough, and that style was a bit flaky

There are few signs on the Marsh

There are lots of cattle, if you're nervous about that

The going improves

The Fobbing Horse Barrier comes into view

This is where the direct path across the Marsh crosses a ditch to join the ECP at the barrier

Fobbing Flood Barrier

Looking back across the Marsh

Upstream of the Barrier

No right to roam here

Dried churned mud indicates this might be heavy going after rain

Pill box beside Hole Have Creek

Part of the Marsh is Nature Reserve

Keep off the sea wall

Looking back over the Marsh: Barrier to the left, London Gateway to the right

That was a bull, I think

Path around the business park

RSPB Vange Marsh

Path beside flyover heading to Pitsea Station

ECP is signed from Pitsea Station

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