Wallasea Island Circumambulation (11 miles)

The Walk: In case you were wondering what happened to all that tunneling spoil excavated during the Crossrail project, here is the answer: it was deposited at Wallasea Island in Essex to create a new wetland habitat of salt marsh and lagoons. The Island is now a natural haven in an otherwise very built up part of the country. You can enjoy this bounty by walking around the Island on the England Coast Path (ECP). You can also make an excursion by foot ferry across the River Crouch to the picture-book waterside town of Burnham-on-Crouch.

Big skies of Wallasea Island

Route

NB The map shows my route, with various diversions and excursions which you may not wish to follow precisely. You can download the Google map info, as a KML/KMZ file, then convert to GPX using a site like GPS Visualiser.

The main route is shown in BLUE, starting from the Essex Marina and proceeding clockwise. It's fairly easy to navigate, just follow the outer embankment along the shores of the Rivers Crouch and Roach, and finally Paglesham Creek to return to the start. There are plenty of fences and 'Keep Out' signs to keep you on the permitted path around the reserve.

ECP signs

From the North Eastern tip of the Island, a grassy spit heads out to School House Point overlooking the mouth of the River Roach: This optional excursion will add a round trip of 2 miles.

In RED I show the alternative route of the ECP in the South West corner of the Island, which must be followed between 1st September and 20th February (to avoid disturbing the birdlife on the main route).

Sign boards show various walking routes across the reserve if you want to explore in more depth.

In PURPLE I show the optional ferry trip across the Crouch to Burnham-on-Crouch.

Ferry to Burnham-on-Crouch

Why do it?

This is another walk on the Essex littoral which delivers big skies and and far-reaching views over water and flat countryside.

From the sea wall (or, better still, the sun deck of the Ward Room restaurant), Essex Marina has excellent views across the Crouch. It is well worth taking the foot ferry over to Burnham-on-Crouch for a mooch around the picturesque waterfront.

Ward Room bar/restaurant sun deck

Back on the Island, as you walk along the Crouch shore, the wind turbines of the South Dengie Windfarm tower over the landscape. On the far horizons as you round the reserve, you may also make out the offshore windfarms of Gunfleet Sands off Clacton, and Kentish Fields off Whitstable.

South Dengie Wind Farm

Wallasea Island is a work of rewilding in progress since circa 2006. Tidal mudflats were created along the Crouch shore (Allfleets Marsh), and sluices were opened to allow water to flood in and create pools, and a set of three large lagoons on the South of the Island. Large areas of grassland were also left. Three million tonnes of soil excavated during the construction of tunnels beneath London for the Crossrail Project (later renamed the Elizabeth Line) were brought to Wallasea by ship, and used to raise land levels to create a new 115-hectare intertidal area of saltmarsh, islands and mudflats, known as Jubilee Marsh at the Eastern end of the Island.

Jubilee Marsh, formed by Crossrail excavations

At the right time of year, large flocks of waders can be seen. Short-eared Owls or Marsh Harriers quarter the grasslands and marshes, and Common Seals haul themselves out on the mudflats. I saw none of this in June, just a few oyster catchers, but I did hear corn buntings, and saw large numbers of marbled white butterflies.

Marbled White Butterfly

There are hides at the School House and Half Moon viewpoints. Here, you look across the Roach to Foulness Island, home to an MOD test range.

School House Viewpoint

At the Beagle viewpoint, an info board explains that this was the last posting for HMS Beagle - the ship that carried Captain Fitzroy and his companion Charles Darwin on their momentous scientific expedition in 1825-30. The ship was repurposed as a coastguard watch ship and stationed off Paglesham to police smuggling, a somewhat sad end for such a doughty vessel. She was finally broken up in 1870. The Lagoons are named after Fitzroy and Darwin, and also Captain Stokes, who captained the Beagle on her last expedition.

Beagle Point Info board

Logistics:

I parked in the large visitors' car park at Essex Marina. There is a charge of £2 for the day, payable by contactless card at the machine (if it's working; if not, call in at the harbour office and register your numberplate, and they will let you off paying).

Essex Marina Car Park

You could also park at the RSPB car park, free to RSPB members, small charge for non-members, pay by app. The car park is open 8am to sunset (or 8pm, whichever is earlier). The gate to the reserve is locked outside these hours. There is a toilet at the car park.

RSPB Car Park

Or, you could start from Burnham-on-Crouch and cross to Essex Marina on the ferry, but check timing of the last ferry back. The ferry is seasonal and usually operates only at weekends, so check the operating days on their website, which also gives the mobile number of the ferryman, or it is listed at the jetty. Call him up and he'll come and collect you.

Distance

The circuit of the Island is 9 miles excluding the excursion to School House Point, which adds another 2 miles.

Challenges:

The path along the Southern (Roach) shore is below the embankment on the landward side to avoid disturbing the birdlife. You can discretely climb up the embankment to get a view over the River and the lagoons, but it's quite steep, and too rough and overgrown along the top to walk along.