Weymouth (Bowleaze Cove) to Lulworth Cove

The walk: From Bowleaze Cove on the Eastern fringes of Weymouth, the walk follows the coast visiting Osmington Mills and Ringstead Bay. Rather than follow the official Coast Path, the walk stays on Ringstead Beach and ascends the White Nothe headland on the vertiginous Smuggler's Path, then rejoins the official path to Durdle Door, before making a final deviation via Dungy Head and Stair Hole to arrive at Lulworth Cove.

Map

NB The map shows my GPS track, with various diversions and excursions which you may not wish to follow precisely.

Why do it: Up to Ringstead Bay, the coastal scenery is pleasant enough, but lacks the grandeur of the coast further East. Things improve with the the ascent of the Smuggler's Path, which gets the adrenaline going. (Actually, it's more the nervous anticipation: once you've done it you realise it's not so bad.) From here to Lulworth Cove normal service is resumed, with a rollercoaster of 'bottoms' (the local dialect for 'valley'). The innuendo reaches a peak at Scratchy Bottom, the sign for which must be the most photographed on the South West Coast Path. From the airy perch of the Bat's Head there is a fine view of the bay below. Durdle Door is justly celebrated and much visited. One can follow the well trodden tourist trail down to Lulworth Cove, or to add a final twist, descend steeply to St Oswald's Bay, and make a final scramble around Dungy Head to Stair Hole.

Distance: 10.5 miles

Logistics: There is a pay car park at Bowleaze Cove, but you can park for free on Bowleaze Coveway. From Lulworth Cove get the Jurassic Breezer bus (no 30 - summer only) back to Overcombe Corner, a short walk back to your car, either along the road (Bowleaze Coveway) or along the beach if you are parked close to the Bowleaze Cove facilities.

Challenges: The walk along Ringstead beach is a bit of a shingle slog, and ends with some scrambling over the rocky foreshore. I don't know if parts of the beach get covered at high tide: best to do it around low tide.

Make sure you find the correct access point for the Smuggler's path - wooden steps up from the beach to join a well worn path meandering along the undercliff, before steepening for the main ascent. Although zig-zagging across the steep grass slopes of White Nothe headland, the path is actually quite well worn and graded, but might not be suited to anyone without a head for heights and exposure, in which case stick to the main coast path. East from here, most of the ascents and descents are steep to very steep, and lack the steps which have been installed in other parts of the coast path.

For anyone used to the near-solitude of most of the coastal path, the crowds around Durdle Door and Lulworth Cove will come as a shock to the system.

Refreshments: The usual beach side fare at Bowleaze Cove. Smuggler's Inn at Osmington Mills. Snacks at Ringstead. Plenty of options at Lulworth Cove.

Nearby Walks

To the West: Portland Bill

To The East: Lulworth Cove to Kimmeridge

Photos