Hardway, Gosport, Stokes Bay

The Walk: This walk more or less follows the England Coast Path from Hardway, along the Western shore of Portsmouth Harbour, then the esplanade at Gosport and onward to and along the shingle beach of Stokes Bay.

Royal Clarence entrance

Route

NB The map shows my route, with various diversions and excursions which you may not wish to follow precisely. BLUE: main walk ORANGE: Dead end extension Northwards along the shoreline from Hardway Sailing Club (low tide only)

Start from Hardway on the Western shore of Portsmouth Harbour. You can walk Northwards along the shore from the Hardway Sailing Club at low tide for a mile or so, but this reaches a dead end beside the RN Ammunition Depot, so you must return the way you came. Otherwise, follow the England Coast Path along the mainly quiet shore front roads and pavements, passing through the RN Heritage site of Priddy's Hard, across Forton Lake on the Millenium Bridge, through Royal Clarence Waterside and Marina, and along Gosport Esplanade to Haslar Lake.

The path then has to navigate around the extensive development site of the former RN Hospital of Haslar and the MOD's Fort Monckton on roads, before passing along the shingle beach in front of Fort Gilkicker and on along the shore to finish at the No 2 Battery Car Park.

Why do it?

The main theme of this walk is 'Royal Navy, Past and Present'. There are fine views across the water to RN warships moored in the Harbour and dockyard. Since you will likely have the sun (if any) behind you, the scene is particularly well lit.

Aircraft Carriers (two masts of HMS Victory peeping over the building on the right)

Hardway (and indeed the whole of Gosport) was a major centre for loading vessels destined for the Normandy Landings in 1944.

At Priddy's Hard, was located the former ammunition factory from where lighters plied back and forth 'ammunitioning' warships. The route passes right through the Explosion Museum of Naval Firepower housed in the Georgian Grand Magazine. There is a charge to visit the museum, but the grounds, cafe and waterfront are free to access, including a collection of naval armaments either side of the path.

Naval Firepower on display Explosion Museum

At the Royal Clarence development, there is another impressive collection of Georgian warehouse buildings, now converted into apartments and business units.

Royal Clarence

There are more impressive views from the Gosport Esplanade, over to the Spinnaker Tower and historic Old Portsmouth, including HMS Warrior, and the mast tops of HMS Victory.

Spinnaker Tower from Gosport, HMS Warrior on Left

The waterfront is one giant marina (well actually three: the Royal Clarence, Gosport and Haslar).

Haslar Marina, with Old Portsmouth in the background

Having crossed the bridge over Haslar Lake, it seems you can enter the grounds of the Submarine Museum for free and view the HMS Alliance, a WW2 era submarine, from the quayside (but there is a charge to enter the museum and go inside the sub.)

HMS Alliance, RN Submarine Museum

You cannot enter the Royal Haslar site (former RN hospital complex), but walking down Haslar Road you cannot fail to be impressed by the massive brick walls along either side.

The impressive brick walls of the Haslar Hospital site

When you reach Stokes Bay, there are more fine views across the Solent to the Isle of Wight and the Palmerston Forts, which, along with Forts Monckton, Gilkicker and No 2 Battery were part of the Victorian defences built to defend Portsmouth Harbour from attack by the French.

Fort Gilkicker on the Solent

Logistics:

Start: Park at the free, long stay car park in Green Lane, Hardway

Park at Green Lane Long Stay Car Park, Hardway

Finish: No 2 Battery Car Park. Return to the start by bus (for example, no 5 to the White Hart, where change to the E1 to the Royal Windsor, just round the corner from the Green Lane Car Park).

Finish at No 2 Battery Car Park

Distance:

Main route 8 miles, plus the optional Northwards shoreline excursion from Hardway Sailing Club, 1.5 miles round trip.

Challenges:

England Coast Path completists might attempt to walk all the way from Fareham, but unfortunately the path has to follow busy roads inland to avoid the various MOD facilities.

The Northwards extension of the coastal path from Hardway Sailing Club can only be done at low tide. Continuing beyond Quay Lane Boatyard, the path must be accessed by a rather awkward climb down a grassy bank, is quite muddy in parts, and has little to commend it, save a different perspective on the upper reaches of Portsmouth Harbour.

Hardway shoreline path at high and low tide

The inland diversions around the Royal Haslar site and the MoD's Fort Monckton are beside roads.

The beach at Stokes Bay is deep shingle, but, having passed in front of Fort Gilkicker, there is a good track a few yards back on the greensward, and from the IRB station onwards there is an excellent wide tarmac promenade.