The Walk: This section of the England Coast Path (ECP) goes from the bustling harbour at Whitstable to the historic town of Faversham. The path follows the shore of the Thames Estuary and, later, the Swale, before winding inland along the Faversham Creek. Highlights include trendy Whitstable, Grand Design mansions overlooking Seasalter beach, RSPB Seasalter Levels, the expanses of Graveney Marshes and the South Swale Nature Reserve, the giant Cleeve Hill Solar Park, vintage vessels at Iron Wharf, and a surfeit of historic buildings in Faversham. (Previous section of the ECP from Margate to Whitstable here.)
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| Cleeve Hill Solar Park |
Route
NB The map shows my route, with various diversions and excursions which you may not wish to follow precisely. You can download the Google map info, as a KML/KMZ file, then convert to GPX using a site like GPS Visualiser.
Starting from Whitstable station, walk down to the Harbour, then it is straightforward to follow the England Coast Path (ECP, also signed as the Saxon Shore Way, SSW). After passing the beachfront mansions at Seasalter, the path ducks inland, paralleling the coast for a mile beside the RSPB Seasalter Levels Reserve, then rejoins the sea wall twixt the Faversham Road and the beach. At the Sportsman pub, the path heads along the (relatively) remote Graveney Marshes coast and along the meandering Eastern bank of the Faversham Creek, entering the town via the Standard Quay retail experience. Head through the town to the station, taking in the many historic buildings along the way.
Why do it?
This is another bracing section of the Kent Coast.
Whitstable has become a trendy hangout for boho refugees from London seeking cheaper property. The Harbour is buzzing with activity at peak times, and is still a centre for oyster fishing.
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| Whitstable Harbour |
Colourfully renovated houses overlook the shingle beach as you follow the path Westward. At Seasalter, the beach and grass slope are part of the private Granville Cliffs Estate, and large 'Grand Designs' mansions line the shore road.
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| Seasalter beachfront mansions |
At the Seasalter Water Ski Clubhouse, the beach seems to be inaccessible behind houses. By this stage, the acres of caravan parks behind the coast have died away, and the path leads behind the houses on the other side of the Faversham Road, alongside the Seasalter Levels, which have been restored by the RSPB with extensive water channels and wetland areas.
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| Seasalter Levels Info Board |
After a mile or so, you return to the sea wall (or you could walk along the shingle beach). At the (expensive fine dining) Sportsman Restaurant, the Faversham road heads inland, leaving you to branch off following the sea wall overlooking the open country of the Graveney Marshes, the coastal margins of which have been designated as the South Swale Nature Reserve. Here you leave the Thames and enter the Swale channel between the mainland and the Isle of Sheppey. On the Sheppey shore, you can make out the cliffs at Warden Point (visited on this walk) and the white sands of Shellness (visited on this walk). The high ground at this end of the Isle of Sheppey is the Isle of Harty. There are distant views of the high level Sheppey road bridge.
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| Nearing the end sea wall at the Sportsman Restaurant |
The pastoral of Graveney Marsh does not last long, as you approach the enormous Cleeve Hill Solar Park, wherein acres of pastureland have been covered in slightly sinister looking low profile black solar panels, which are your companion for over 3 miles as you round the Nagden headland into Faversham Creek. Such is the price of green energy, I guess. And across the Swale, the tall wind turbines, next to the Prison on Sheppey are visible.
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| Solar panels |
Faversham gradually comes into view (most notably, the unusual tower of St Mary's Church with its trelliswork 'crown'.
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| Wobbly zoom onto Faversham Church steeple on the right |
You enter the town via the Iron Wharf (still an honest working boatyard, specialising in vintage craft) then Standard Quay, where the old buildings have been converted to various eateries and emporia (though it was very quiet and closed up when I passed through on a weekday afternoon). There are several historic vessels moored alongside.
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| Vintage boats at Iron Wharf |
As you make your way down to Faversham Station, it is well worth exploring this historic town which is a gem for lovers of traditional buildings, many dating from Tudor times. It was also the site of an Abbey wherein King Stephen and Queen Matilda were entombed. The town was a centre for gunpowder manufacture, ship building and repair, brickfields and breweries (Fremlin's - now converted to a Tesco Superstore - and also Shepheard Neam's). Heritage walk leaflets can be picked up at the visitor centre next to the Guildhall.
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| Faversham Guildhall |
A more detailed stroll around town is part of my Two Creeks Walk.
Logistics: The walk is bookended by stations at Faversham and Whitstable, so could be accomplished solely by train form London. Or you could park either in Faversham (the station car park is quite small and may be full, in which case go the Queen Anne's Hall long stay Car Park), or in Whitstable (station car park).
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| Railway water tower next to Faversham Station (c1858) |
Distance: 11 miles, station to station
Challenges: The walk is well signed as the ECP or SSW, so is not difficult to follow.
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| Signed as ECP and SSW |
Opinion may be divided on the Solar Park: landscape blight and habitat desecration, or forward thinking sustainable green energy project? Predictably, there was vociferous local opposition during the planning consultation.
Judging from the amount of dried, cracked mud on the Graveney Marsh path, the paths will be muddy in winter or after prolonged rain.
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| Dried mud path |
Refreshments: Lots of eateries in the town and around Whitstable Harbour (though many had not yet opened when I passed through around 11am).
Tearoom and bar at West Beach Caravan Park
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| Cafe behind the wall at West Beach Holiday Park |
Cafe/shop at the Seaslalter Holiday Park.
Sportsman Pub Restaurant: a bit upmarket for a walkers lunch: taster menus start at £65.
Bars and cafes at Standard Quay (though seemed closed when I passed through).
Numerous establishments in Faversham town centre: Try around the Guildhall.
Nearby Walks:
ECP Margate to Whitstable
ECP Faversham Two Creeks Walk
ECP Faversham/Oare to Conyer
On Sheppey: Swale Coast walk (Leysdown to Swale Station)
For an overview map of all my coast walks see this page.
More Photos
Bright sunny day in late April, with a biting Easterly wind
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Beachfront cottages on wayout of Whitstable
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| Seafront houses (the one in the foreground was the home actor Peter Cushing |
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| Beach path |
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| Nearing Seasalter |
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| Mansion |
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| Permissive path along Granville Cliff frontage |
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| Caravan parks behind the sea wall |
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| Seasalter Levels |
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| Choppy waters |
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| Path along the sea wall |
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| Cafe/shop at Seasalter Holiday Park |
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| Wind Turbines on Sheppey |
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| Looking back east along the sea wall |
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| Sportsman Pub |
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| Coffee in the conservatory |
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| Entering South Swale Nature Reserve |
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| South Swale Local Nature Reserve info board |
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| Story of German Bomber shot down here during the Battle of Britain |
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| Path out over Graveney Marsh |
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| Windswept |
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| White sand of Shellness seen across the choppy Swale |
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Nearing the start of the Solar Park
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| The solar panels are quite low profile |
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| Solar panels |
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| A path cuts across the solar park |
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| Sandy headland of Castle Coote |
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| Distant view of Sheppey Crossing |
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| Wind Turbines on Sheppey (near the three prisons) |
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| Hollowshore Point, Shipwrights Arms to left (visited on this walk0 |
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| Looking down Faversham Creek (solar park continues on left) |
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| Solar Park info board |
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| Wreck on Faversham Creek |
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| Boat mash up |
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| Entry to Iron Wharf |
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| Iron Wharf |
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| Clinker |
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| Old fertiliser storage building, Standard Quay |
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| Barge 'Workman' (c1950) |
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| Barge 'Barmere' (c1948) |
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| Standard Quay |
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| Two towers: Faversham Church and old brewery chimney |
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